Phytotherapy by Neuza Gomes

By Neuza Gomes, Specialist in Traditional Chinese Medicine and Cosmetology at Clínica Tâmara Castelo (Lisbon)

In a beauty industry often led by the promise of instant results and spotlight molecules, a quieter, deeper movement is emerging: the return to the wisdom of whole plants. This is where totum comes in. A concept rooted in phytotherapy that honours the complete power of the plant, not just one of its parts. According to cosmetology expert Neuza Gomes, it’s not only more respectful of our skin’s complexity, but also more effective in the long run.

What is Totum?

Totum is the complete collection of natural compounds found in a plant, preserving all essential components without isolating just one active substance. “The totum is the full synergy of the plant,” explains Neuza Gomes. This includes a rich combination of flavonoids, vitamins, essential fatty acids, polysaccharides, minerals, and more. Together, these active plant compounds interact to deliver a result that is more than the sum of its parts. Supporting regenerative skincare and enhancing natural hydration.

This synergy (each molecule supporting, regulating, or tempering the action of the others) is at the heart of the totum philosophy, and a perfect example of green beauty in action. “Some plants lose their effectiveness when only one component is extracted. You also risk reducing efficacy or increasing toxicity,” Neuza adds.

Totum in Skincare: Holistic, Stable, and Multifunctional

Rather than pursuing a single benefit, such as hydration or anti-aging, totum-based skincare works on multiple levels at once: protecting, nourishing, soothing, regenerating. “The totum can be more effective because it offers a multifaceted action, improved stability, lower risk of irritation, and compound synergy,” says Neuza. “Certain components within the totum even improve the absorption of others, creating longer-lasting results.”

This comprehensive performance makes it a strong foundation for sustainable beauty practices. It is particularly significant when it comes to sensitive skin. Isolated active ingredients, though powerful, can often cause irritation or imbalance. Neuza gives an example: “Take salicylic acid as an example. In its pure form, it can irritate the skin. But in its natural state within willow bark, where it’s supported by other compounds, that risk is reduced thanks to its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant context.”

The presence of this natural matrix gives totum-based extracts a modulating effect. Instead of forcing the skin into change, they gently support and restore skin balance, aligning with principles of anti-inflammatory skincare.

Prickly Pear: A Totum Superstar

One of the most remarkable demonstrations of the totum concept in action is the prickly pear cactus. Often praised for its seed oil, rich in antioxidants and essential fatty acids, the full plant offers far more.

“When only the seed oil is used, a nourishing and antioxidant action is obtained. But when the mucilage, flowers, pulp and bark are also extracted, the potential is multiplied,” Neuza explains.

“This totum is rich in flavonoids, vitamin C, essential fatty acids and polysaccharides. Together, they intensely moisturize, protect against free radicals, stimulate collagen production, and improve skin regeneration.” This clearly illustrates collagen support and the value of whole-plant regenerative skincare.

It’s this multidimensional action antioxidant, hydrating, anti-inflammatory, and regenerative that showcases why the totum can be far superior to a fractionated extract in delivering true skincare benefits.

Adaptive Beauty: How Totum Responds to Your Skin’s Needs

Another of totum’s unique qualities is its adaptability to different skin needs. “The same extract can hydrate dry skin and regulate oil in combination or oily skin types. That makes totum ideal for all skin types, even normal, as it helps maintain skin balance over time,” says Neuza.

This intelligent modulation is reminiscent of adaptogens in herbal medicine, compounds that help the body adapt to stress and restore balance. “It strengthens the skin’s natural defences, helps manage oxidative stress, and maintains physiological balance,” she explains, highlighting its role in oxidative stress defense.

“You’re not forcing an effect,” says Neuza. “You’re supporting the skin’s own intelligence.”

Natural Processes for Authentic Results

To preserve this delicate synergy, the method of extraction is essential. “Cold maceration, first-press vegetable oils, or supercritical CO₂ extraction are ideal,” says Neuza. “Avoid high heat, protect from light and oxygen, and use opaque, airtight packaging.”

Preserving the totum requires consistency at every stage, from sourcing to storage, to avoid damaging or distorting the delicate balance of the plant’s active compounds. It’s also more ecological, an approach that reflects true sustainable beauty ,avoiding chemical processing and limiting waste.

For consumers, Neuza recommends looking for terms like whole plant extract or integral extract on cosmetic labels. These indicate that the product honours the complete plant profile. Conversely, formulas that emphasize one isolated compound in high concentration may reflect a more aggressive, less balanced skincare strategy.

Calendula: Another Totum Hero

Calendula is another botanical Neuza Gomes highlights for its remarkable skin benefits, when used in its full form. “Its combination of flavonoids, triterpenes, carotenoids, and essential oils work in synergy to regenerate, soothe, and protect the skin. Its topical effectiveness is remarkable,” she notes.

Again, it’s the sum of these active plant compounds, not any single “star,” that creates the plant’s full regenerative potential, a perfect match for natural hydration and anti-inflammatory skincare practices.

A Quality Marker for Label Recognition

How can you spot a cosmetic product that respects totum? Neuza Gomes recommends looking for indicators such as “integral extract” or “whole plant,” as well as details of the manufacturing process. Conversely, the presence of a single chemical active in high concentration betrays an isolated, often more aggressive approach.

Towards a Livelier, More Intelligent Cosmetics

Totum restores the entire plant to its rightful place in skincare. It allows us to exploit all its virtues, in their natural coherence, instead of extracting only what is measurable or commercially attractive.

In short, as Neuza Gomes concludes: "Totum is the plant in all its complexity. And this complexity is precisely what makes it precious, effective, and perfectly suited to our skin."

FAQ

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What are the benefits of calendula oil for the skin?

Calendula oil is known for its soothing, healing, and anti-inflammatory properties. It helps calm redness, repair irritated skin, and relieve minor burns or sunburn. Perfect for sensitive, reactive, or eczema-prone skin.

How to recognize a high-quality prickly pear oil?

A quality oil is 100% pure, virgin and cold-pressed. It contains no additives or perfumes, is generally packaged in a dark glass bottle and comes from seeds originating in Morocco or Tunisia.

Is pure prickly pear oil suitable for all skin types?

It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. It is non-comedogenic, which means it does not clog pores and can be used safely even on problem skin. Prickly pear oil even soothes irritation.

Is calendula oil suitable for baby care?

Absolutely. Calendula oil is known for its soothing, anti-inflammatory, and healing properties, making it ideal for baby diaper care. It helps prevent and relieve diaper rash, redness, and irritation caused by prolonged contact with wet diapers.

Products like the SOWÉ calendula oilincorporate this extract to protect and strengthen babies' skin barrier. Regular application of calendula oil forms a non-occlusive protective film, promoting skin regeneration while allowing the epidermis to breathe.

Is pure prickly pear oil effective against wrinkles?

Yes, it's effective against wrinkles and dark circles. Thanks to its richness in vitamin E, essential fatty acids and sterols, it firms skin, reduces fine lines and lightens dark circles with regular application.

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